More than 30 years of JJ Valaya, and the inimitable man behind it all continues to redefine luxury with every new chapter.
By Nichola Marie
There has been a strong buzz about the exciting developments in the world of Valaya. Do fill us in!
Indeed, there’s a lot happening in the world of Valaya and lots to be very grateful for. I don’t really like the word ‘proud’ but yes, there is gratitude for sure. There’s been a sea of expansion and there are a lot of new and exciting developments that are happening. Our couture brand JJ Valaya grows from strength to strength with its flagship at the JW Marriott in Delhi, and a recently opened brand new store at Ambavata in Mehrauli in Delhi, and the soon-toopen JJ Valaya store at Mumbai at Jio World Plaza, which will be a return to Mumbai after 24 years. So these are very exciting times for us. In addition to that, of course, you know nearly six seasons back we introduced a brand new line of our brand new label called JJV Kapurthala. JJV is our bridge to the luxury line and in a short span of two years, it’s now four stores strong with more in the offing. One just has to keep working and keep creating something that’s very special, and keep thanking the universe for all the magic that it’s bringing. So I think currently this is more than we can wish for and, of course, there are lots of exciting new plans which we shall divulge in the months to come.
How do you view the Indian fashion industry at this point in time?
The Indian fashion industry, of course, is going through a completely golden era with most of the top brands being acquired by corporates, whether it was Birla or Reliance. There’s a fantastic sort of opportunity there with the businesses spreading far and wide and it’s already happening.
In addition to that I’m very glad both the fashion weeks got together – so Lakme and FDCI together are now doing some really incredible events which are platforms for the industry. In addition to that, there’s a global interest in India because India is poised to be one of the primary markets of the world, and forget about that – the Indian market itself is booming! We have a large population and most of them are either aspiring or going into the ultra-rich category. So I think all good things are happening as we speak and one has great things to look forward to.
As a renowned designer and couturier, a founding member of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), and the first global brand ambassador for Swarovski, you’re often hailed as the Monarch of Indian Fashion. What accomplishments stand out to you as sources of the greatest pride and gratitude?
Well, thank you. Actually, you’ve listed out a lot of the things that make me feel very good about this wonderful profession that I’m in. And the fact remains that this profession is also my personal life, so really, it doesn’t feel like work! Too many moments of gratitude; to list them out would be almost impossible. But let’s just say, I’m blessed with the luxury of being able to do exactly what I absolutely love doing. So, be it fashion, interiors, or photography, all my passions are now my work. And I don’t think I could have asked for anything more.
What design philosophies have remained central to your work over the years?
Well, I think the keyword in my answer actually rests in your question, which is enduring design philosophy. And this, to me, is the fundamental of couture or luxury: When we create something which is so special, so timeless, so beautiful, it must endure. That is something I feel my forte lies in. I don’t want to be a slave to transient fads or trends. Short trends are very exciting because they keep the fun in fashion alive. I’ve had brides and grooms from 25-27 years ago now coming to us with their daughters, who have discovered their parents’ clothes and want them altered to their size. That, in itself, is very special. When we open those garments, which are close to three decades old, the look and feel are just as new as they were then. And the fact that another generation is totally resonating with them, I think that’s my biggest high. So, yes, timelessness, and if I can create something which endures, would probably be my core design principle. Luxury, being the underlying signature, I am definitely a player who wants only to dream, conceive and create something which is so incredibly beautiful that it stands the test of time, and it breathes luxury.
What elements contribute to creating designs that stand the test of time?
Several elements go into trying to create something which is timeless; we don’t succeed every time but more often than not we do. The number one principle for that is quality. And this is something that gets overlooked a lot, especially nowadays because I’ve noticed that most people think that if you fill up something with loads of embroidery, and lots of glitter, that does the job. But the fact remains that if you pour hours and hours into techniques, materials, and the fineness of craft that can stand the test of time, which can last for years and years and be passed on to generations, that is when you know you’ve created something which is never going to go away. We apply the same principle to everything we do, whether it’s clothes, my interiors line, our tapestries – which are well-known now as wall art – or my photography. Timelessness remains the core principle, for which I think quality is the number one ingredient.
Do you think the influence of royalty and elegance in clothing designs continues to shape fashion choices in India?
Well, you know royalty is where we come from. If you go back in time in India, we were several principalities and states run by several maharajas; a land of multiple palaces, forts… grandeur unparalleled. And yet somewhere from that era, perhaps courtesy the British, we came down to the ‘slumdog millionaire’ sort of imagery that was bestowed upon us. So I think one cannot run away from the core DNA. And Indians’ fashion choices, as you’ve chosen to call it, especially for weddings, will always be reminiscent of that era. This is the one time that we Indians get to live the moment the way we used to, to feel like royalty, to dress like royalty and to kind of marry in absolute style. So, it’s not a matter of governing India’s fashion choices. It’s almost like being true to your own DNA.
With your involvement in haute couture, footwear, tapestry, and your passion for fine art photography, do the aesthetics across these different mediums align in any way?
Yes, absolutely. When it comes to my design work, whether it’s fashion or accessories or furniture or tapestries, there is a distinct DNA that runs through it. We have fondly been known as the royal nomad with a penchant for Art Deco. And I think in everything I do, you will find that there is a fair balance of royalty with the nomadic spirit, but with the modernity and glamour of the Art Deco period.
So that goes across the board. When it comes to photography, obviously, it’s a similar grain, but not identical, because photography also liberates me to some extent, because I don’t look at it commercially. For me, photography is all about capturing that specific moment and hoping that I’ve frozen something which would gladden the heart many, many, many centuries later. In photography, I work with portraiture, architecture, still life and travel, besides, of course, fashion photography. So yes, the underlying spirit in everything is the same, but perhaps the expression sometimes does have a few differences.
You’ve also secured a prominent place for Indian fashion on the global stage.
Well, 30 years is a long time. And yet, surprisingly, for me, it looks as if I started my career yesterday. Too many accomplishments to talk about, international and national, but I am so deeply grateful for the opportunities that I’ve got, for the recognition that I’ve received from so many people internationally, which has given me the chance to travel and see the world. I mean, I’ve done nearly 50 countries already. Each trip has been so special and has involved working with such amazing people. When you come to luxury and couture, it also means meeting some very rare people. So I’ve had meals with kings and queens, with presidents and first ladies who hosted special evenings or a high tea for me. I’m extremely, extremely humbled by this because all I did was follow my heart and create something which I thought looked wonderful. And the appreciation just came from all over. Nothing can be more gratifying. Our latest was when I worked with the very accomplished Ruth Carter, who won the Oscar for ‘Black Panther’. We worked with her to create some very special looks for Queen Ramonda’s character, played by Angela Bassett in ‘Black Panther: Wakanda Forever’. I think that was amazing, creating something along with a wonderful Oscar winner for probably one of the biggest productions of Hollywood. So yeah, life goes on, and surprises keep coming. I just keep embracing them, being grateful for them, and making sure that I give them my best.
