Celebrating the phenomenon that was Rohit Bal – designer par excellence, aesthete, friend, and national treasure.
By Nichola Marie
“The flame that burns twice as bright burns half as long,” wrote Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu. The extraordinary life of one of India’s most celebrated fashion designers lends weight to the theory that the brightest flames are often the ones that go out first… But what a way to go! With widespread outpourings of love and grief and gratitude and admiration for the man, his genius, his foibles, and everything in between that made Rohit Bal the unparalleled phenomenon he was.
Rohit Bal passed away at the age of 63 on November 1, 2024 following a heart attack. Plagued by health challenges for the last few years, Bal had returned to the runway in October, almost a year after a serious health scare. He showcased his collection ‘Kaaynaat: A Bloom in the Universe’ at the grand finale of Lakme Fashion Week. It will be a swansong to remember…
Trendsetter, Pioneer, Re-Definer Of Indian Fashion
In its post announcing his demise, the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) drew attention to Bal’s “unique blend of traditional patterns with modern sensibilities,” adding that his work redefined Indian fashion, and inspired generations.
“Bringing both craftsmanship and artistry to his runway, along with an unmistakable personal style, Rohit Bal’s impact on Indian fashion was far greater than the garments he created,” points out writer and artist Kanika Gahlaut in the ‘Economic Times’. “Known for blending opulence with Indian heritage through his trademark flair, he holds a permanent and pioneering place in Indian fashion, bridging traditional elements with modern sensibilities.”
Bal’s creations have showcased intricate craftsmanship inspired by Indian architecture, Mughal motifs, and nature. His creations blended art, drama, and cultural pride. “He embodied a philosophy of style that he shared openly, always championing beauty, elegance, and individuality. A guardian of taste, he inspired those around him with his unwavering commitment to aesthetics,” notes Gahlaut, who names Bal’s uncompromising vision and focus on couture above gimmicks as his style legacy to India.
The Many Shades Of Gudda
As we celebrate Bal’s life and work, we piece together the many shades of the man fondly called Gudda by his friends and contemporaries…
‘It was almost as if the universe was working with him’ – JJ Valaya
Speaking to ‘Hindustan Times’, noted designer JJ Valaya shares, “Gudds and Jeju. That’s what we called each other. I remember the first time we met, in 1989. The late Rohit Khosla introduced me to this crazy guy with orange hair who loved to dance and have a good time. That is my earliest memory of Rohit Bal. He had graduated a few years earlier, and his label was already a few years old. I was an award-winning student designer from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and had decided to launch my own label too, upon graduation.
“In the early ’90s, I had my first commercial show at The Grand Hotel in Kolkata. We were a trio showcasing there: Rohit Bal, Rohit Khosla and I. We were so young, so confident. I was sure that since I was a star student, whatever I created would be sold out. Suffice it to say that my first collection was a complete disaster. Nothing sold. They understood the market. They sold everything. We laughed about that, and I learnt my first lesson. I tell this story to illustrate the kind of kinship that existed and the kind of evolution that is possible when you’re in the company of good people.
“It was such a different world. No social media. No fashion magazines. A single fashion institute in the entire country. We kind of all grew up collectively and found our way together.
“Rohit never felt the need to try too hard, or prove a point. Some of the most magical shows I’ve seen have been his. It was almost as if the universe was working with him, to create the magic. Through his life, he always had fun. He proved that it is possible to do great work while having great fun. To me, he will remain immortal. His voice, his joy, his magic live on endlessly within me.”
‘Over the top, but in a super sophisticated way’ – Tina Tahiliani Parekh
Executive Director of multi-designer store chain Ensemble, Tina Tahiliani Parekh wrote in ‘Forbes India’, “I’d say that the special thing about Gudda was that he was one of the geniuses who turned least commercial. He was true to his vision and wanted to make beautiful things. He has to be credited with being the first Indian designer to take menswear seriously.
“Gudda was wild, and super generous. The last time I saw him was at his store, and he insisted on bringing along a home-cooked Kashmiri meal. He served it beautifully, and he brought champagne, which we drank in Rohit Bal crystal champagne glasses. It was heady — even his stores were heady. They were over the top but in a super sophisticated way.”
‘He was our national treasure’ – Sunil Sethi
President of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), Sunil Sethi struck an emotional note declaring, “The entire country should know that there will never be another Rohit Bal. He was India’s most creative and beloved designer, a mentor to countless young designers. His creativity and attention to detail were unmatched — everything from music to model, guest, and media selection. He was a master in every skill. He was our national treasure.”
‘The ability to have dreams and a voice’ – Suvir Saran
Chef and author Suvir Saran, writing in the ‘Indian Express’, reminisced, “I first encountered him in my life at the tender age of 14. Afraid to breathe and exist as a gay man in India, I found in Gudda comfort and solace, a sense of belonging and the ability to have lofty dreams and a voice. He was my pillar of strength and when failing health crippled me and had my life hanging by a thread, his daily calls, funny messages and naughty photos came my way to keep me feeling loved.”
‘His kindness had no boundaries’ – Ranjit Grewal
In an interview with ‘India Today’, real estate developer and interior designer Ranjit Grewal shared, “He was religious, he was industrious, creative, talented, intense and a thought leader. He lived life king-size. He just had swagger. There will never be another like him. He was the funniest, most talented, wild and handsome, the most fun-loving person I’ve ever met. He was a pure soul, a beautiful human being, a rare gem in this world.”
‘That glory is infectious’ – Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Leading designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee maintains, “I was always in awe of Rohit Bal, his towering talent and personality. I used to feel like an amateur — such was his impact on everything. It was larger than life. Gudda was always very encouraging of my body of work and having his acknowledgement meant a lot.”
‘Always your biggest fan’ – Sonam Kapoor
Revealing that she heard about his passing while on her way to celebrate Diwali “in your gorgeous creation that you lent to me for the second time,” Sonam Kapoor wrote, “I’ve been blessed to know you, wear your designs, and walk for you on multiple occasions. Always your biggest fan.”
…Indeed, Ms Kapoor speaks for many.
