As Vikram Phadnis celebrates 35 years in fashion with Ananta, a collection that honours India’s timeless craftsmanship, he looks back with humility at a journey woven with talent, passion and perseverance. And he looks ahead to a future brimming with collaborations between designers and artisans, heritage and modernity, and India and the rest of the world.
By Andrea CostaBir
Long before he became a fixture in India’s fashion narrative, Vikram Phadnis was a storyteller at heart. His early days in the film world honed his eye for drama, detail and emotion. These elements then merged with tradition and timeless style to define his design language. Over the decades, he’s evolved from costume designer to couturier, while staying rooted in Indian craftsmanship.
As he celebrates 35 years in fashion, Vikram Phadnis opens up about his creative evolution, his enduring bond with Indian craftsmanship, and the art of finding emotion in every silhouette.
Excerpts from the interview…
Vikram, you’ve completed 35 years in fashion with your collection Ananta, a tribute to timeless craftsmanship. What did creating this milestone collection mean to you personally?
Ananta was a very emotional project for me. It marked 35 years of my journey in fashion, years filled with learning, growth, and countless memories. Every outfit in the collection carries a story, a moment, and a tribute to the people who have supported me through this long path. Creating Ananta allowed me to look back at how far I’ve come and appreciate the craft that has been at the heart of my work. It was a celebration of dedication, passion, and the timeless beauty of Indian artistry.
In hindsight, what drew you so strongly to fashion that it became your life’s work?
My connection with fashion happened naturally. I was first drawn to the world of films and performance, but I slowly realised that creating clothes gave me a different kind of joy. I loved how design could express emotion, tell a story, and make someone feel special. Fashion gave me a voice, a way to bring creativity to life. Over time, it stopped being a career choice — it became my identity and purpose.
Indian craftsmanship has always defined your aesthetic. What keeps you so deeply connected to traditional artisans and their techniques?
I have always believed that Indian artisans are the true soul of our fashion industry. Their talent and attention to detail are unmatched. Working with them keeps me grounded and connected to our roots. These crafts have been passed down through generations, and I feel a responsibility to help preserve them. My goal has always been to blend traditional techniques with modern sensibilities, so that our heritage continues to remain relevant for the new generation.
From bridal couture to easy festive wear, your collections reflect a deep understanding of the Indian consumer. How do you read what people want to wear?
Understanding what people want to wear comes from years of observation and interaction. India celebrates culture, colour, and emotion through fashion, and I always try to design pieces that reflect that spirit. I pay attention to how clients feel in my garments and listen to their feedback. Trends change, but comfort, emotion, and individuality never go out of style. I believe the key is to design clothes that connect with people on a personal level while still feeling timeless.
Your resort line Bloom showed a lighter, more playful side to your design language. What was liberating about working beyond couture?
Bloom was a refreshing change for me. After spending years creating structured couture pieces, I wanted to design something more relaxed and full of life. The collection allowed me to play with fresh colours, prints, and flowy silhouettes. It reminded me that fashion doesn’t always have to be grand — it can also be joyful and effortless. Working on Bloom brought back the excitement of exploring new ideas without limits.
Your friendships — from Salman Khan to Sushmita Sen and Malaika Arora — are often spoken of as genuine and longstanding. How have these bonds influenced you beyond the professional sphere?
The film industry has played a huge part in my journey. Salman Khan has been more than a friend; he has been a mentor and constant supporter since my early days. My relationships with people like Malaika Arora and Sushmita Sen have also gone beyond professional work; they are like family. These friendships have inspired me to take risks, stay humble, and keep growing. The cinematic world has taught me the importance of storytelling, drama, and visual presentation — all of which influence my work as a designer.
Having spent over three decades in fashion, you’ve seen the industry evolve first-hand. What’s your take on Indian fashion today — and what excites you about its future?
Indian fashion has evolved beautifully over the years. We have moved from being craft-driven to being globally recognised for our creativity and individuality. The new generation of designers is bold and unafraid to mix tradition with innovation. What excites me most is the growing respect for craftsmanship and sustainability. I believe the future of Indian fashion lies in collaborations between designers and artisans, between heritage and modernity, and between India and the rest of the world.
