Khushi Shah, Creative Director, ‘Shanti Banaras’, discusses the value of reviving the traditional craft of Banarasi zari silk saris.
By Nichola Marie

The label name ‘Shanti Banaras’ is intriguing. Tell us its significance.

My late grandmother, Shanti, had an exquisite taste in saris. Her deep love for these luxurious pieces has been the heart and soul of our brand’s inspiration. In her honour, we named it ‘Shanti Banaras’.

How is ‘Shanti Banaras’ reviving the traditional craft of Banarasi zari silk saris?

Our brand stands out with an impressive collection of nearly 150-200 handwoven real zari saris, each intricately designed by our dedicated team. Our ‘Real Zari Concept’ is a cherished family heirloom of intrinsic and emotional value to be passed down from one generation to the next. The reason to make a collection in real zari is to preserve the value of the unique and complicated style of weaves that distinguishes itself from the ordinary.
We proudly support skilled artisans to preserve and continue traditional Banarasi weaving techniques. While honouring traditional methods, we incorporate contemporary motifs, such as geometrical and animal patterns, to appeal to a new generation. Our mission is to preserve a legacy, celebrate craftsmanship, and promote cultural heritage. By choosing our saris, you support both artistry and tradition.

What are some of the main challenges you encountered in reviving the craft/ textile?

Joining the sari industry at 21, I was surprised to see many peers opting for simpler garments over saris at weddings or events, highlighting a lack of awareness about handloom products.
It’s crucial to educate the next generation about the importance of preserving our craft. ‘Shanti Banaras’s’ ongoing focus has been on showcasing craftsmanship and intricacy. I’m pleased to see a shift over time, with celebrities like Shanaya Kapoor, Jhanvi Kapoor, and Sobhita Dhulipala embracing our brand and bringing attention back to Banarasi saris.

What makes Banarasi zari such a prized possession?

Banarasi saris are celebrated for their elaborate patterns and detailed embroidery, featuring intricate floral, paisley, and Mughal-inspired motifs. The use of real gold and silver zari threads enhances their opulence. With a history dating back to the Mughal era, Banarasi saris blend Persian and Indian aesthetics, reflecting a rich cultural heritage.
Silk and gold are spun and woven into intricate zari work. The moment silk blends in with gold, the value of the intricate weave turns precious. The zari used in the saris contains a real 1700 Gaja moderate colour with 58% – 60% silver of utmost purity. Gold ratios are 1.25-3.5 grams of 24 carat, depending upon the whole weight of the product.
Crafting a single sari is a labour-intensive process, taking weeks to months, as skilled artisans meticulously weave each piece by hand. The combination of luxurious materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and historical significance makes Banarasi zari saris highly prized possessions, treasured as both works of art and symbols of cultural heritage.

What are the issues that have been ailing India’s handloom and textile crafts?

Modernisation, including the use of powerloom products and machine embroidery, is taking over on a large scale, causing brands to gravitate towards these methods. This sets back our weavers and diminishes the attention to detail we once prided ourselves on. Additionally, changing fashion trends have reduced the demand for traditional textiles. However, there is now a growing awareness about this issue. Low wages and a lack of financial support make it difficult for artisans to sustain their craft.

What are some of the highlights of the brand’s success story that fill you with a sense of fulfilment?

When we began in our New Delhi store, focusing solely on real zari saris was a bold experiment. We were pleasantly surprised to witness consumers actively appreciating the significance of real zari, and the growing demand for these saris warmed our hearts. From launching conceptual collections to celebrating a successful one-year of our Kala Ghoda store in Mumbai, the journey has been incredible. Moreover, reaching diverse audiences not just in India but globally has been truly overwhelming for us.

Many including Madhuri Dixit and Rashmika Mandana have been spotted wearing ‘Shanti Banaras’.
What makes it resonate with today’s celebrities?

By wearing ‘Shanti Banaras’, celebrities showcase not only their appreciation for high-quality fashion but also their support for preserving traditional arts and crafts. The unique blend of traditional techniques and contemporary motifs in our saris resonates with their desire to wear something meaningful and stylish.
This connection to heritage, combined with our commitment to authenticity, makes ‘Shanti Banaras’ a favoured choice among today’s celebrities.